Let me clarify then: when I comment out all the rewrite rules in .htaccess, I still get the same problem I originally described. That is, the page
http://localhost/dokuwiki/doku.php loads fine, but clicking any link on it gives me the error message "The requested URL /dokuwiki/[blah] was not found on this server". This would seem to suggest that its not an error in the rewrite rules. So after commenting out the rules, here is what is left uncommented in my .htaccess file:
<Files ~ "^[\._]ht">
Order allow,deny
Deny from all
Satisfy All
</Files>
RewriteEngine on
RewriteBase /dokuwiki
The first part of that was always there, but I forgot to put it in my original post (I've since added it).
With or without the rewrite rules in place, I noticed the following odd behaviour. If I manually type in the link to some page B other than the start page, I get redirected to the start page. If I click on an internal link to page B from the start page, I get the above error message. Not sure if that means anything.
Oh, and how do I turn on rewrite logging?
Cheers